I consider myself fortunate that most of the fish I eat has been caught by my own (not so) fair hands. The fish is caught, dispatched and immediately placed on ice in a coolbox. Once I've got the fish home, it will then be filleted, vacuum-sealed and frozen. Quite often, I will then cook off the heads and frames and remove what meat remains to either make fishcakes or feed the cats. But what about those who don't or can't catch their own fish?
Although we have seen a decline in the number of dedicated wet-fish shops on the high street, these have been replaced with fish counters in supermarkets and independent delis. There are also a number of "fish vans" selling at markets or door-to-door. But when you see the sign "Fresh Fish", just how fresh is that fish? Although there is no legal definition, the accepted definition of "Fresh Fish" is:
"Fish that has not been previously frozen and has been kept on ice for no longer than 21 days". Yes, fish can still be described as "fresh" even if it was caught up to three weeks prior to the point of sale. This may come as a shock to some but those of us above a certain age can see the reasoning behind such a long shelf-life. Prior to the advent of freezer-trawlers and factory ships, the UK deep-water fleet would often be at sea for up to three weeks: one week steaming to the fishing grounds, one week fishing and one week steaming home. Once back at the home port, the fish had to be landed, sold at market and then either sent for further processing (usually within spitting distance of the market), or loaded onto lorries and trains for delivery inland. So a fish caught on the first day's fishing would be 14 days old before it even came to market.
Much of the fish we currently eat has been caught, processed and frozen at sea and although freezing can cause some slight reduction in quality, modern freezing techniques keep this to an absolute minimum. This may not be the case with fish bought over the counter. Next time you are at a fish counter, take a close look at the labelling of the fish, quite often you will find, in tiny print:
"previously frozen - do not re-freeze". Often you will find these fish placed directly adjacent to fish that really is "fresh" and has a whopping great sign declaring that fact. Certainly not unlawful but could easily be construed as misleading. So when you see discounted fish on the supermarket counter, please look closely at the label before taking advantage of the offer and filling your freezer for the future.
Another slight-of-hand practise is labelling a sealed tray of wet-fish as
"freshly prepared". This description is no indicator of the age or "freshness" of the actual fish, all it tells you is that it has recently been prepared. In many instances this "preparation" consists of little more than cutting off the head, possibly filleting and throwing on a lump of parsley. Mackerel is often seen labelled in this manner and the reason for cutting off the head is simply to avoid you seeing the dull, sunken eyes and grey-tinged gills. Other fish that regularly get the "freshly prepared" treatment include: plaice, dab, herring and whiting. As for mackerel, unless it has been smoked, I personally wouldn't eat any mackerel that was older than 24 hours after capture. The best mackerel I have tasted is taken straight from the sea, dispatched, filleted and then eaten sashimi-style, with soy and wasabi. The flesh is sweet with a taste that can only be described as "of the sea". I freeze mackerel and garfish to use as flattie (turbot & brill), bait in the Spring because I can't guarantee a supply of fresh bait. Even the fish I use as bait will be subject to the same icing and vacuum packing treatment as I'd use for table fish.
So, quite often, the freshest fish that most people could buy is the fish that has been quick-frozen either at sea or immediately on landing. It is usually individually quick-frozen, employing "blast-air freezing" techniques to lock in the original flavour and keep any deterioration of taste and texture to an absolute minimum. This method of freezing is far superior to what anyone can achieve at home, so when I call on you again, you can be sure you're getting the best fish available.